A kimono for hot weather
Yukata robes are the easiest way into traditional dress, and they are seen everywhere in Japan once summer begins.
A yukata is a casual, unlined cotton robe worn in warm weather. It has the same basic T-shaped cut as a kimono, but it is simpler: it is not worn over layers of undergarments, it is usually made of a lightweight cotton cloth, and it is tied with a casual sash. It is the most approachable form of traditional dress, and many people who never wear a kimono wear a yukata in summer.
The name is often explained as coming from “bathing cloth,” and an early form is generally connected to garments worn at the bath. According to commonly repeated accounts, in the Heian period people wore a linen robe in steam baths, and in the Edo period, as public bathhouses spread, people began wearing a cotton robe to go to and from the bath and to relax afterward. Gradually it turned into casual summer wear for ordinary townspeople.
How it differs from a kimono
The differences are mostly of formality and fabric:
- Cloth. Cotton or similar, and sometimes a blend or linen, rather than silk.
- Layers. A yukata is traditionally worn directly, often over a simple slip, while a kimono is worn with an undergarment and several accessories.
- Sash. A yukata is tied with a narrower, softer sash, such as a hanhaba obi or heko obi, not the stiff wide obi of a formal kimono.
- Formality. A yukata is casual summer wear, regarded as suitable for informal outings and not for formal ceremonies. Some teachers and tea schools would not accept it for a tea gathering, for example.
- Socks. Many people go without tabi and wear geta on bare feet.
For these reasons, a yukata is much simpler and less expensive than a kimono, and it can be washed more easily, though care instructions vary.
Colors and patterns
Traditional yukata are blue and white, a pairing associated with indigo dyeing. The cool tone suits summer, and the stencil and resist patterns date back to the Edo period. Today there is a very wide range of colors and designs. Typical motifs include morning glories, dragonflies, fireworks, goldfish, hydrangeas, and geometric patterns. Younger people often choose bright colors and bold prints, while older people may prefer quiet patterns, but there are no strict rules.
Many motifs are seasonal, so a yukata with a summer flower fits the moment. This sense of timing is similar to the way seasonal words work in poetry.
How it is worn
A yukata is wrapped with the left side over the right, as with all kimono. The reverse, right over left, is used only for dressing the dead, so it is avoided. The robe is adjusted at the waist so the hem falls at about the ankle, and the sash is tied at the back. Many people tuck a folding fan into the back of the sash and carry a small drawstring bag. Hair is often pinned up to show the neck, a practice linked to the idea of coolness.
The tying of the sash can be as simple as a bow. Ready-made sashes with the bow already attached exist and are popular with first-time wearers. Because cotton is easy to wear and the garment is less fitted than Western clothes, it is considered comfortable, though first-time wearers may find the sash restricting.
Where yukata are worn
Yukata are associated with summer events, especially:
- Summer matsuri festivals and neighborhood events with food stalls.
- Fireworks festivals, where many people dress up to watch the evening display.
- Bon dances held during the Obon season, in which villagers and visitors dance in a circle, often in yukata.
- Visits to hot spring towns.
Yukata are also worn at home as relaxation wear, particularly after a bath.
Onsen towns and inns
In many hot spring towns, traditional inns provide yukata for their guests to wear in the rooms, to the baths and, in some places, around the town. Guests might walk in geta along the street between the baths. This custom is part of what many people have in mind when they think of onsen culture. The inn’s yukata is typically sized loosely and may be a plain design, with a belt. Some places let visitors choose from a selection.
It is worth noting that bathing etiquette depends on the specific facility, and any health effects of hot spring bathing should not be assumed. People with medical conditions should ask a qualified professional before bathing in hot water.
A garment that stayed popular
Unlike the kimono, which has become occasional wear, the yukata has become more visible in recent decades, as department stores, rental shops and makers promote it for summer events. Younger people have taken to it as a way to dress up for a festival. Its low cost, light weight and lack of strict rules help explain why. In this way, the yukata continues the habit of the Edo townspeople who first wore it: something comfortable, seasonal and enjoyable.