Dress for a major occasion
A wedding is among the main occasions when people in Japan still choose to wear a kimono. The garments used are specialized, and their forms, colors and patterns carry meanings. Customs vary by region, by family and by the preferences of the couple, and many couples combine traditions with Western-style dress. What follows is a general description.
The bride’s garments
Shiromuku. The most traditional bridal outfit is the shiromuku, a white kimono in which the robe, the under-layers and the outer garment are all white. White is often explained as a color of purity and of a fresh start, and a common explanation is that the bride is “dyed” in the colors of her new household. As with many symbolic readings, this is a popular explanation and not a rule that every family follows. The shiromuku is typically woven or embossed in subtle patterns, and may be worn with accessories such as a white hood or an ornamental headdress.
Uchikake. An uchikake is a heavy, padded outer robe, worn open over the kimono and not tied with its own sash, so it trails behind the bride. It can be white, or in rich colors such as red and gold, and is often decorated with embroidery and woven patterns. A white one is often worn for the ceremony and a colorful one for part of the reception.
Hikifurisode. This long-trailing kimono with long sleeves, tied with an obi, is another formal bridal option, often in brilliant colors and used for later parts of the celebration.
Headwear. Two types are commonly mentioned: the wataboshi, a large white hood that frames the face, and the tsunokakushi, a band worn over the hair. Explanations for the latter include modesty and, in a poetic reading, covering feelings of jealousy. The headdress is part of tradition, and many brides today wear their hair in styles that suit the formal wig or an elaborate updo.
The groom
The groom’s formal kimono is usually black, made of silk, with family crests on the chest, back and sleeves. He wears a matching haori jacket and striped hakama, the divided skirt-like trousers. Compared to the bride’s costume, it is restrained. The use of crests links it to the broader categories of formal clothing described in the guide to the types of kimono.
Motifs and symbols
Wedding kimono are decorated with designs that are traditionally believed to bring good fortune:
- Cranes, associated with long life and with lifelong partnership.
- Pine, bamboo and plum, a trio of plants that stand for endurance and renewal.
- Peonies, chrysanthemums and cherry blossoms, flowers associated with prosperity and beauty. The role of cherry blossoms in Japanese culture is wider than weddings, but they are a popular motif.
- Tortoises, fans, and waves, other symbols of longevity and a widening future.
The interpretations are conventions, and different families emphasize different ones.
The ceremony
A Shinto wedding takes place at a shrine, with a priest, close family members and the couple. The practice of holding weddings at Shinto shrines became popular around the turn of the twentieth century, according to commonly cited accounts, and before that weddings were commonly held at home. Among its rituals is a cup-sharing rite, in which the couple and families take sips of sake from cups of different sizes. In this setting, the shiromuku and the black groom’s kimono form a recognizable picture. A Shinto setting is only one option, and many couples marry in Western-style ceremonies, in civil ceremonies or in other religious settings. Dress varies accordingly.
Guests and family
Guests also wear kimono, with the type depending on age and status. An unmarried woman may wear a furisode, while married women, including the mothers of the bride and groom, typically wear a black tomesode, which is more formal. Guests avoid wearing white, which is reserved for the bride, so as not to compete with her. Casual kimono are not suited to a wedding. Whether to wear kimono at all is up to the guest, and most guests today wear Western formal dress.
Modern practice
Many Japanese couples now wear a Western white gown for the ceremony or reception and a kimono for the shrine portion or for photographs. Rental is very common, as buying a bridal kimono is expensive and storing one takes space. Some families pass down kimono, and a mother’s or grandmother’s garment may be altered and reused. Others rent from a wedding studio that takes care of dressing and styling.
Because customs differ between families, regions and communities, anyone planning to attend or take part in a wedding is best off asking the hosts or a wedding planner about dress. The details here are a general orientation, not a rulebook.