A shared design: the thong
Traditional footwear in Japan covers a family of sandals and clogs worn with kimono, yukata and work clothes.
Most traditional Japanese footwear shares a basic idea: a base for the foot held on by a thong, called a hanao, that passes between the big toe and the second toe. This is why the matching socks, tabi, have a split toe. Because the foot is only loosely held, the wearer walks with short, light steps, which is also the pace the narrow kimono encourages.
Footwear in Japan is also tied to the habit of taking shoes off indoors. The genkan entrance and the clean surface of tatami mats are part of why slip-on shoes, easily removed and placed neatly at the door, make practical sense.
Geta: raised wooden sandals
Geta are wooden sandals raised on two crosswise supports, called teeth (ha). The raised base keeps the feet out of mud and puddles, which suited unpaved streets and rainy weather. Paulownia (kiri) is a wood often associated with geta, because it is light, though other woods are also used.
Variations include:
- Two-toothed geta, the standard form, whose clacking sound is among the sounds traditionally linked to summer evenings.
- One-toothed geta, sometimes called tengu geta after the long-nosed mountain figure of folklore. They are used mainly in mountain ascetic traditions and are hard to balance on.
- Geta with a single block base, in which the wood is cut from a single piece, and koma geta, shaped as a more compact, rounded block.
- Rain geta with a covering over the toe, called tsumakake, meant to keep mud from splashing the foot.
Today, geta are commonly worn with yukata at summer festivals and in onsen towns, rather than with formal dress.
Zori: flat sandals
Zori have a flat or slightly raised sole, and are made from straw, rush, fabric, leather or, in modern times, rubber and plastic. They are generally considered more formal than geta.
Formal zori worn with kimono often have a firm sole covered in brocade or lacquered fabric and a raised heel, and the thong is chosen to match the garment. They come in a wide range of colors, from plain white or gold for ceremonial events to decorative patterns for festive wear. Women’s formal zori are typically paired with white tabi.
The type called setta has a leather underside and was historically a more durable sandal. Straw zori, informal everyday items for centuries, remain in use at some festivals and in ritual dress.
Waraji and other working footwear
Waraji are sandals woven from rice straw, tied to the foot with cords that wrap the ankle. They were everyday footwear for travelers, farmers and walkers, because the straw was cheap and easily replaced along a road. Samurai culture also made use of similar sandals on campaign. They are now mostly seen at festivals, in historical reenactment, and in religious practice, where they are sometimes offered at temples.
Other working footwear included wooden rain clogs, cloth-and-rubber split-toe work boots, and straw boots for snow. These items varied greatly by region and climate.
Okobo and high clogs
Okobo, sometimes called pokkuri, are tall clogs with a hollowed base, historically associated with young girls and, today, with apprentice geisha (maiko) in Kyoto. Their height and slightly rounded shape produce a distinctive walk. Other tall clogs existed in earlier centuries, and wearing them has at times been tied to the fashions of the pleasure quarters, so the details differ by place and period.
Tabi and socks
Tabi are ankle-high, split-toe socks, traditionally with a fastening at the back made of small metal clasps or hooks. White tabi are the usual formal choice with kimono, and colored or patterned ones are common in casual wear. Work tabi with rubber soles, worn by builders and gardeners, are a modern descendant. For yukata, the wearer often goes without socks.
Choosing footwear for dress
Traditional etiquette matches the sandal to the garment:
- Formal kimono usually calls for formal zori and white tabi.
- Casual kimono may be worn with simpler zori or, in warm weather, with geta.
- Yukata are commonly paired with geta, often worn on bare feet.
Wearing the sandals takes practice. The thong can cause blisters at first, and walking in geta on slippery wet surfaces may be tricky, so many people choose comfort over strict rules on long walks.
Westernization and revival
From the Meiji era, leather shoes became part of men’s and later women’s everyday dress, and by the mid-twentieth century most people wore Western footwear daily. Traditional footwear survived in ceremonies, festivals, craft traditions and as a fashion item. Some contemporary makers produce zori-inspired sandals and geta-style clogs for ordinary use, showing that the shapes still fit modern life.