An observance for the dead
Obon, sometimes simply called Bon, is a summer period in which the spirits of ancestors are traditionally believed to return to their families. It is a Buddhist-influenced observance that also draws on older folk customs, and for many families it is the second great holiday of the year after New Year. People travel to their hometowns, visit family graves, make offerings and take part in community dances.
It is not a gloomy occasion. Although it concerns the dead, the mood is usually warm: a family reunion with those present and absent, mixed with a summer festival.
Origins
The name Obon is generally traced to a Buddhist text, usually known by the Sanskrit-derived name Ullambana, connected to a story about one of the Buddha’s disciples. In the tale, the disciple, called Mokuren in Japanese, sees that his deceased mother is suffering, and the Buddha advises him to make offerings to the monks at the end of their summer retreat. The offerings relieve her suffering, and the disciple dances with joy. This story is often cited as the root of both the offerings and the dancing.
Details of how the observance first arrived and spread are less certain, and scholars generally agree that it blended with existing Japanese beliefs about the return of ancestral spirits in the middle of the year, as well as with Shinto customs. It was observed at the court in early periods and spread widely among ordinary people in later centuries, particularly in the Edo period.
When it is held
Obon is traditionally held around the thirteenth to sixteenth of the month. The month itself varies.
- August. In much of the country the observance takes place around August 13 to 16, a time often called “mid-August.” This is the most common timing nationwide, and most companies have a break at this time.
- July. In some areas, including some parts of the capital region, the observance follows the same days in July, because the dates were moved directly from the old calendar to the new one when the Gregorian calendar was adopted.
- Old calendar. Some places, such as Okinawa, still follow the lunar calendar, so the dates move from year to year.
Because of this variety, people sometimes speak of “July Bon” and “August Bon.” Anyone planning to visit during the Obon season should note that travel is usually very busy and many businesses may close for several days.
Welcoming the spirits
Traditions differ between regions, sects and households, but a common sequence runs as follows.
- Preparation. Families clean the house and often the family grave. A small altar is set up, sometimes called a spirit shelf, with offerings of fruit, vegetables, rice, sweets and flowers.
- Welcoming fire. On the first evening, a small fire is lit at the entrance or at the grave, so that the spirits can find their way. This is often called the welcoming fire.
- Stay. During the days of Obon, family members remember the dead, and a priest may visit to chant at the household altar.
- Sending off. On the last evening, a second fire is lit, or lanterns are set afloat, to send the spirits back.
Details such as how long the altar stays up differ from household to household, and many modern urban families keep a simplified version or none at all.
The cucumber horse and the eggplant ox
One of the best-known folk customs is the making of small animals from vegetables. A cucumber is given four matchstick legs to make a horse, and an eggplant is given legs to make an ox or cow. A common explanation is that the horse lets the spirit come quickly, while the ox lets it return slowly, carrying its load of offerings. The idea is affectionate and a little playful, which suits the mood of the observance. Not every region follows this, and the explanation varies.
Lanterns and floating light
Lanterns are central to Obon. Paper lanterns may be hung at the entrance or by the altar, and some households use revolving lanterns with painted patterns. In shrine and temple grounds, rows of stone lanterns may be lit, and the history of the stone lanterns in Japanese gardens and sacred places shows how lamps have long been connected with guiding and remembering.
On the final night, some communities float small lanterns down a river or out to sea, an event called toro nagashi. The sight of many small lights drifting away is often described as moving. Mountain bonfires, such as the large fire characters lit on hillsides in Kyoto on the last night, serve a similar send-off role. Because they involve large crowds and fire, such events are tightly organized by local committees.
Bon odori: the dances
The best-known public feature of the season is the bon dance, bon odori. A wooden tower, called a yagura, is built in a park, temple yard or schoolyard, with a drummer on top and lanterns strung out around it. Residents circle the tower in rings, following simple repeated steps and hand movements that the whole neighborhood knows.
Features include:
- Local songs and steps. Each region has its own songs and dance patterns, some performed for generations. Others are newer.
- Open participation. Spectators are often invited to join, and the steps are meant to be learned by watching. Regular participants will often help beginners.
- Clothing. Many dancers wear cotton yukata robes, though casual clothing is also common.
- Atmosphere. Food stalls, shaved ice and games are often set up alongside, which gives the dances the character of a general summer festival.
Some of these dances are connected with unusual local forms and are well-known for their long histories, and the wider story of Japanese dance includes both the courtly stage forms and these community circle dances. Fireworks festivals sometimes occur around the same days, though they are usually separate events.
Obon today
The meaning of Obon for modern families varies. For some, it is a religious occasion with priests, chanting and a household altar. For others, it is mostly a vacation in which grandparents and grandchildren see each other and the grave is tidied. In cities where families have moved away from ancestral villages, the observance can be shorter or more symbolic.
The purpose, though, is remarkably consistent: to pause in the middle of summer and think of those who came before, and to feel the continuity of a family across generations. Because it happens in the heat, among crowds, lanterns and music, it is as much a celebration as a memorial.
A note on respect
Visitors who happen upon an Obon event are generally welcome to watch a bon dance and may be invited to join. At temples, graveyards and family altars, a quiet manner is appropriate. It is polite to ask before photographing people at a grave, and to keep clear of ceremonies unless invited. Religious views differ among families, so it is wise not to assume that everyone observes the season in the same way.